When we talk about sustainable versus unsustainable fashion, a few preconceptions pop up: fast versus slow fashion, new versus repurposed, local versus international brands. All of these usually reach one simple conclusion: buy vintage, it's both beneficial for your wallet and the environment. As an active thrifter myself, I'd say there are endless benefits to buying not necessarily "vintage" but yes, second hand clothing. However, "vintage" these days has been used in many ways outside its own definition. The times I've seen Shein, Zara and H&M pieces being sold at shops that brand themselves as vintage sellers are beyond counting. However, that is not the target for today's post. Rather, I'd like to share my opinion on an issue that I've been seeing and experiencing lately on everyone's favourite app: Vinted.

Vinted, especially within Europe, has been popularised over the last years as THE platform when it comes to thrifting treasure finds. In contrast to apps like Depop, one is still able to find vintage MissSixty or Sarah Pacini without paying €60+ from another GenZ girlie. With the variety of sellers, it really does feel like treasure hunting, and I can spend hours just browsing through old ladies their accounts for €5 ballerinas and €3 y2k tank tops.

However, first of all, to call Vinted purchases sustainable means disregarding the journey that these packages have to make to get to our local post office. Especially in Amsterdam, Vinted packages have increased to such extent that local shops do not have the capacity anymore to handle all of them. I recently had to pick up a package in the outskirts of the city because all other shops reached their limit. If we go back to these sustainable preconceptions, "local shopping" is definitely not part of the Vinted cycle.

Furthermore, now that even the Zara girlies have jumped on the vintage trend, there is an increase in buyers that just buy to resell. The €5 ballerinas in your basket have been snatched by a seller that not even a week later resells them for €80. My friend recently found the most amazing turquoise split toe boots for €60 that were sold right before she was able to pick a payment method, and now they've resurfaced for the hefty price of €250. Vintage, even through Vinted, has become another money making method, completely outside a sustainability framework.

To prove my point, I have been bombarded with Vinted ads over the last couple of weeks. None of them target a "buying sustainably" or "good for the environment" perspective. Rather, they advertise the app as a good way to earn extra money on the side. True, this might be partly due to the criticism they would get if they did advertise themselves as sustainable, however, their entire business model has become centred around selling.

Although Vinted is still not anywhere close to Depop for now, my for you page has been filling up more and more with "Vinted shops", accounts that use actual models, gatekeep brands, and sell at prices that are often even higher than most fast fashion brands.

All in all, I'm not here to criticise your buying, especially since I'm still an active user of Vinted myself. Just be aware that Vinted does not compare to local sourcing, and ask yourself if the journey that €2 top has to make is worth it.